Category Archives: Second hand economies

Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times – 15-16 June 2021 – Symposium Report and New Announcements

The Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times Symposium, held online 15-16 June 2021, brought researchers and practitioners from around the world together to talk about pressing issues related to secondhand cultures and economies.

Many thanks to all of the brilliant presenters. The symposium was co-organised by Dr Jennifer Ayres (NYU), Dr Triona Fitton (University of Kent), and Dr Alida Payson (Cardiff University), with the help of research assistant and JOMEC BA grad Kamila Buczek. It was supported by The Leverhulme Trust and Cardiff University’s School of Journalism, Media & Culture (JOMEC).

If you missed the 2021 symposium, see the short programme below!

The symposium has led to some exciting new connections and a growing Secondhand Research Network. We have some research network activities coming up in 2022:

Follow @2ndhandcultures on Instagram and Twitter to get involved and keep in touch.

Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times

Day 1  –  15 June 2021

Welcome and Introduction to the symposium with co-organisers Dr Jen Ayres, Dr Triona Fitton (University of Kent), Dr Alida Payson (Cardiff University) and Kamila Buczek (Cardiff University)


Introductory Workshop: Well-Worn: Falling Back in Love With Our Clothes

Wendy Ward (Independent practitioner /author)
◊ Show and tell and reflection session. Participants can bring (or wear!) to the workshop an item of well-worn and/or well-used clothing.


1.1 FABSCRAP Textile Journeys

  • Dhamar Romo Chavez (FABSCRAP Community Coordinator) Textile journeys: One-stop textile reuse and recycling enterprise providing fabric scrap pick-ups, sorting, consolidation, and recycling in New York City


1.2 Panel – The meanings of second-hand buying and selling in modern England

Chair: Dr Henry Irving (Leeds Beckett University)


1.3 Global fashion cultures

Chair: Professor Hazel Clark (Parsons, The New School)

  • Dr Aulia Rahmawati, Syafrida N. Febriyanti and Ririn P. Tutiasri (University of Pembangunan Nasional ‘Veteran’, Indonesia), “Thrifting is Thriving”: Secondhand Fashion Consumption and the Indonesian Youth
  • Liz Ricketts (The OR Foundation), The OR Foundation: No sustainability revolution without justice in supply chains
  • Brigitte Stockton (Bucks New University), Second-hand clothing and young adults in Dalian, Northern China


1.4 Design Education 1

Chair: Dr Sara Tatyana Bernstein


5. Household economies

Chair: Dr David Nettleingham (University of Kent)

  • Professor Jon Stobart (Manchester Metropolitan University) and Dr Sara Pennell (University of Greenwich) The anxieties of the auction: risk and the trade in second-hand household goods in eighteenth-century England
  • Lorna Flutter (Cardiff University) Handing down home among boatdwellers
  • Dr Jennifer Le Zotte (UNC Wilmington) Secondhand Studies as Historical Gap-Work


6. Charity shop & thrift store ethnographies

Chair: Dr Jennifer Ayres (NYU)

  • Violet Broadhead (University of Bristol), Salvage and waste in charity shop stockrooms
  • Siobhan Kelly (University of Salford), Sociability and belonging or professionalism and profit? Exploring the lived experience of volunteers aged 65+ working within the charity retail sector
  • Dr Jennifer Ayres (NYU), The Work of Shopping


7. Objects and exchange

Chair: Dr Triona Fitton (University of Kent)

  • Maya Wassell Smith (Cardiff University), Sold at the Mast: Secondhand cultures and social economies at sea in the Nineteenth Century
  • Vita Kurland (New York University), eBay: The Secondhand Market and USPS Memorabilia
  • Dr Triona Fitton (University of Kent), Gifts in the “Quiet Economy”: an ethnography of UK charity shops


8. Problematizing Second Hand Cultures

Chair: Dr Alida Payson (Cardiff University)


Book talk 1 – Tansy Hoskins, Stitched Up: The Anti-capitalist Book of Fashion  (Pluto Books, 2014) (with Dr Jennifer Ayres)


Keynote: Professor Avril Maddrell (University of Reading) ‘Unsettled Times & Unsettling Secondhand Cultures’

(discussant, Dr Triona Fitton)

Secondhand Quiz and Social – (created & led by Kamila Buczek and Triona Fitton)

Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times Day 2  –  16 June 2021


Welcome to Day 2 – Design sprint – secondhand futures, or what next for secondhand research & praxis?


2.0 Research/Practioner Workshops

  • 2.1 Dr Amy Twigger Holroyd (Nottingham Trent University) Fashion Fictions Secondhand Safari – a participatory research project to generate, experience and reflect on engaging fictional visions of alternative fashion cultures and systems.
  • 2.2 Kat Roberts (Cornell University) Fabric Scrap Twine Workshop: Contemplating Waste-free Creative Practices (BYO fabric and scissors)
  • 2.3 Dr Jules Findley (University of Brighton) Secondhand and the Tacit

2.4 Vintage sellers panel

Chair: Dr Jennifer Ayres (NYU)


2.5 Waste, households, and the state

Chair: Dr George Campbell-Gosling (University of Wolverhampton)

  • Rhiannon Craft (Cardiff University) The Social (De)Construction of
    Waste: Bodging, Tatting and Making Do
  • Dr Annebella Pollen (University of Brighton) Post-mortem Dress:
    Extinguished Sparks
  • Rose Sinclair (Goldsmiths, University of London) The Jumble Sale: Second hand Thrift: From Dorcas Society’s to Dorcas clubs


2.6 Design education 2

Chair: Dr Greg Climer (California College of the Arts)


2.7 Makers, remakers & designers

Chair: Kelly L. Reddy-Best (Iowa State University)

  • Professor Mark Joseph O’Connell (Seneca College, Toronto, Canada) Y Sin Embargo Te Quiero (And Yet I Love You) Economic Policy Encoded in the Consumption of Used Garments
  • Dr Gesche Huebner (UCL) Clothes with Stories: An interdisciplinary art-science project
  • Kyra G. Streck and Dr Kelly L. Reddy-Best (Iowa State University) Trans YouTube Content Creators: Informal Economies for the Production, Distribution, and Consumption of Trans-Supportive DIY Undergarments – Research in Progress
  • Debarati Sarkar (Jadavpur University) Embroidering as (re)collecting


2.8 Secondhand narratives

Chair: Dr Alida Payson (Cardiff University)

  • Dr Alida Payson (Cardiff University) Makeover Welfare: Mary, Queen of Charity Shops, reality TV and real secondhand politics
  • Brenda Mondragón and Diana Morales (University College Cork and Benemérita Universidad Autónoma de Puebla) From the ‘tianguis‘ to Instagram: Secondhand Market in Puebla-Tlaxcala, Mexico.
  • Elena Johansen (The New School) Goodwill Industries: Unexpected Catalyst of Fashion


2.9 Institutions & reuse

Chair: Dr Triona Fitton (University of Kent)

  • Dr Lucy Wishart (University of St Andrews) Universities as sites of second-hand exchange: exploring the role of non-commercial organisations in the Circular Economy
  • Ceylan Akbas and Eva Souchet (University of Greenwich) The Un/Archived Textiles project – a hub at the University of Greenwich for swapping clothes, organising repair stations and mending workshops using natural dye.
  • Lindsay Parker (King’s College London) Exploring fashion rental practices through a lens of secondhand cultures


Book talk 2 – Rachel Lifter (NYU Steinhardt) ‘Secondhand surprises and future threads’ from Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender (Bloomsbury 2018)

(w/ discussant Dr Alida Payson)


Keynote – Professor Angela McRobbie (Goldsmiths, University of London) ‘Unpicking Fashion as Capitalism’s Current Crisis: the Politics of Second-Hand Washing’

(w/discussant Dr Jennifer Ayres)


Film screening: Unravel (14 mins)

Q&A with Professor Lucy Norris (Weißensee Kunsthochschule Berlin)


CFP – Special Issue of JOMEC Journal – Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times

Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times

Special Issue of JOMEC Journal

Due date for submissions: Monday 22 November 2021

Secondhand cultures and practices have expanded and transformed over recent decades, with profound social, political, and environmental implications. From reselling sites, swaps, charity shops, and thrift stores, to global waste streams, markets, and waste picking, secondhand worlds invite challenging questions: on value and waste, labour and equity, damage and repair, sustainability and design, ethics and politics, death and renewal, and intersecting areas of class, gender, race, and disability, as well as of method and approach. What’s more, secondhand economies have been unsettled by the global pandemic in ways that are not yet well understood.

Inspired by discussions that unfolded during a virtual symposium held in June 2021, called ‘Secondhand Cultures in Unsettled Times,’ we are inviting submissions to a special issue of JOMEC Journal on the same theme.

As interest in secondhand cultures and practices surges – from governments and businesses looking to capitalise on this ‘new’ market, as well as from makers, workers, shoppers and researchers – we are particularly interested in submissions that critically interrogate and/or creatively intervene in how we understand secondhand cultures and economies around the world.

Co-editors: Dr Jennifer Lynn Ayres (NYU and Parsons, The New School); Dr Triona Fitton (University of Kent); Dr Alida Payson (Cardiff University)

To discuss an idea, please get in touch with us @

We welcome work from researchers and practitioners at all career stages.

JOMEC Journal offers the following guidelines for submissions, but please contact us if you have an alternative format in mind:

  • Article (5–10k words)
  • Interview or discussion (5–10k words)
  • Book Review (1,500 words)
  • Conference Report (2,000 words)

JOMEC Journal is an online, open-access journal from Cardiff University Press:

Due date for submissions: Monday 22 November 2021

Publication date: planned for February/March 2022

More information about submissions can be found here:

Please submit references in Harvard style for ease of editing. Our guide can be found here:


Diwylliannau Ail-law ar Adegau Ansicr

Rhifyn Arbennig o Gyfnodolyn JOMEC

Dyddiad cau ar gyfer cyflwyniadau: Dydd Llun, 22 Tachwedd 2021

Mae diwylliannau ac arferion ail-law wedi ehangu a newid dros y degawdau diwethaf a chael effaith aruthrol ar gymdeithas, yr amgylchedd a’r byd gwleidyddol. O wefannau ailwerthu, cyfnewidiadau a siopau elusen ac ail-law i ffrydiau gwastraff byd-eang, marchnadoedd a digwyddiadau casglu gwastraff, mae bydoedd ail-law’n gwahodd cwestiynau heriol: ar werth a gwastraff, llafur a thegwch, difrod ac atgyweirio, cynaliadwyedd a dylunio, moeseg a gwleidyddiaeth, marwolaeth ac adnewyddu, meysydd croestoriadol dosbarth, rhyw, hil ac anabledd, yn ogystal â dulliau ac ymagwedd. Yn fwy na hynny, mae’r pandemig byd-eang wedi tarfu ar economïau ail-law mewn ffyrdd nad ydym yn eu deall yn llawn eto.

A ninnau wedi ein hysbrydoli gan drafodaethau a ddatblygodd yn ystod symposiwm rhithwir ym mis Mehefin 2021 o’r enw ‘Diwylliannau Ail-law ar Adegau Ansicr’, rydym yn gwahodd cyflwyniadau i rifyn arbennig o Gyfnodolyn JOMEC ar yr un thema.

Wrth i ddiddordeb mewn diwylliannau ac arferion ail-law gynyddu – ymhlith llywodraethau a busnesau sy’n ceisio manteisio ar y farchnad ‘newydd’ hon, yn ogystal â gwneuthurwyr, gweithwyr, siopwyr ac ymchwilwyr – mae gennym ddiddordeb arbennig mewn cyflwyniadau sy’n cwestiynu’n feirniadol sut rydym yn deall diwylliannau ac economïau ail-law ledled y byd a/neu’n ymyrryd mewn ffordd greadigol.

Cyd-olygyddion: Dr Jennifer Lynn Ayres (Prifysgol Efrog Newydd a Parsons, Yr Ysgol Newydd); Dr Triona Fitton (Prifysgol Caint); Dr Alida Payson (Prifysgol Caerdydd)

I drafod syniad, cysylltwch â ni drwy ebostio

Rydym yn croesawu gwaith gan ymchwilwyr ac ymarferwyr ar unrhyw gam o’u gyrfa.

Mae Cyfnodolyn JOMEC yn cynnig y canllawiau canlynol ar gyfer cyflwyniadau, ond cysylltwch â ni os oes gennych fformat arall mewn golwg:

  • Erthygl (rhwng 5,000 a 10,000 o eiriau)
  • Cyfweliad neu drafodaeth (rhwng 5,000 a 10,000 o eiriau)
  • Adolygiad Llyfr (1,500 o eiriau)
  • Adroddiad Cynhadledd (2,000 o eiriau)

Cyfnodolyn mynediad agored ar-lein gan Wasg Prifysgol Caerdydd yw Cyfnodolyn JOMEC:

Dyddiad cau ar gyfer cyflwyniadau: Dydd Llun, 22 Tachwedd 2021

Dyddiad cyhoeddi arfaethedig: Chwefror / Mawrth 2022

Mae rhagor o wybodaeth am gyflwyniadau i’w gweld yma:

Sicrhewch eich bod yn defnyddio dull cyfeirnodi Harvard er mwyn hwyluso gwaith golygu. Gellir gweld ein canllawiau yma: